Cistus ladanifer
(gum cistus)
Tolpis barbata
Orchis italica
(Naked man orchid)
Paeonia broteroi
(Peony)
Cistus crispus
(Rock rose)
Ophrys tenthredinifera
(Sawfly orchid)
Scilla peruviana
Flora in Portugal
The wide variety of soil types, diverse habitats and the mild and sunny climate all combine to produce an astonishing range of flowering plants and shrubs. These are at their best from February to June when the whole landscape is enriched by blazes of colour from the highest mountains to the coastal cliffs.
THE MOUNTAINS
As one might expect there are fewer species in this region compared to the others and distinct differences between the Monchique Mountains the hill of shales and grit stones. Up around Monchique the landscape is dominated by trees. There are Cork Oaks, Olives, Pines and the new plantations of Eucalyptus with the occasional grove of Sweet Chestnut. In May tree heathers and camellias add a dash of colour together with the bright purple flowers of the rhododendron bush (Rhododendron ponticum ssp. baeticum) this species only grows in the Iberian Peninsula. Both types of lavender – purple (Lavandula stoechas) and green (Lavandula viridas), together with Foxgloves and Primroses can be found in damp places. Stone Crops, Crimson Clover, Early Purple Orchids (Orchis mascula) all grow here and all can be readily seen but the endemic Euphorbia moniquensis which only grows high up on Picota is much harder to find.
By far the most abundant plant cover on the shale and grit stone hills is the Gum Cistus (Cistus ladanifer) which has large white flowers mostly with a splash of deep magenta on the base of each petal. The leaves are dark green and extremely sticky. Tree heathers (Erica arborea & Erica australis) with white and deep pink flowers add to the colour of the landscape together with the striking scented yellow flowers of the Acacia trees such as Acacia dealbata and Acacia pycnantha. These are often planted along the road sides particularly on the road from Portimao up to Monchique and in late January/early February they are an especially fine sight. The Strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo), grows everywhere and in early winter can be seen bearing both pale flowers and the fruits which are pale at first darkening to a deep red when fully ripe. The fruits are used to make the local firewater ‘medronho’.
Among the smaller plants that thrive here are both types of lavender, wild gladiolus, wild nasturtiums and violets. An endemic plant in the shales and seen also in sandy places on the coast is the Portuguese milky-white vetch (Astragalus lusitanicus), a perennial herb growing up to 1m high. It blooms from January to May and has large creamy flowers in erect spikes and narrow lanceolate leaflets. It is poisonous to both sheep and cattle. In early spring large colonies of the tiny hooped – petticoat narcissus (Narcissus bulbocodium) can be seen covering the some of the shale cliffs in the Vila do Bispo area.
LIMESTONE
The hilly areas are characterised by the typical plant association of: mastic and turpentine bushes (Pistacia lentiscus & Pistacia terebinthus), rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis), Lavender, Dwarf Fan Palms (Chamaerops humilis), Grey Leaved Cistus (Cistus albidus), Asphodels (Asphodelus albus, Asphodelus fistulosus and Asphodelus ramosus) and Wild Asparagus (Asparagus albus and Asparagus acutifolius). This association is well seen at Rocha de Pena. Smaller flowers among the rocks and boulders include the paper white narcissus (Narcissus papyraceus) and a tiny miniature jonquil (Narcissus jonquilla).
Between the hills where more cultivation has taken place there are thousands of Almond trees, now mostly abandoned with the nuts left to rot on the branches. Other trees include Olives, Carobs, Figs, Walnuts and Nesperas or Loquats. Along the road sides Pepper trees, Cypresses, Oleanders, Judas trees and Pelargoniums abound.
The actual numbers of species that grow on the limestone are too numerous to list but among the most ubiquitous is the Bermuda buttercup (Oxalis ssp) which in spring makes beautiful golden carpets beneath the almond trees but is a noxious weed as far as horticulturists are concerned. Other favourites are the Southern daisy (Bellis sylvestris) , Crown daisy (Chysanthemum coronarium), Vetch (Anthyllis vulneraria), Field Gladioli (Gladiolus illyricus), Aromatic Inula (Dittrichia viscose), Wild Honeysuckle (Lonicera implexa) and the Wild Peony (Paeonia broteroi).
THE COAST
Because of the diversity of habitats including the salt marshes along the coast there is an even greater variety of plants. One striking plant is the imported but naturalised Agave Americana or century plant. This has very sharp leaf edges so it makes an effective barrier and after 10 – 15 years it grows a very tall mast-like flower spike but then dies. On the west coast along the cliff tops where sand dunes abound many rare plants grow including Antirrhinum major, the ancestor of the cultivated snap dragon and spectacular Broomrapes (Orobanche spp.) a root-parasite with a tuberous swelling attached to the host plant and a flowering spike which can appear some distance from the host.
Orchids abound in the coastal areas growing on the lime rich soils; many are the insect mimicry orchids (Ophyrs ssp) including the Bee, Brown Bee, Bumble Bee and Yellow Bee. Other orchids to be seen are the Green – winged (Orchis morio), Naked Man (Orchis italica) and Pyramidal (Anacamptis pyramidalis). Another striking spring flower is the tiny ‘Barbary Nut’ Gynandiris sisyrinchium. The tiny blue flower resembles an iris and only opens during late morning to mid afternoon and one can never ceased to be amazed at the wonder of nature when seeing these delicate plants poking through rock hard soils. All the plants and flowers that can be seen in the central limestone region are also found here on the coastal strip making this a very special place to walk during spring.
The area around Cape St Vincent (Sagres peninsula) has many plants that are endemic, thriving in the wild windswept landscape which is renowned as a classic site for biologists. The peninsula has steep rocks on all seaward sides, a table land extension of the Barrocal flora and sand systems derived from material blown up onto this. On the south-facing cliff tops, the plant assemblages are notable for herbs including the wiry shrub Salsola brevifolia and rounded mounds of thyme (Thymus camohoratus). The cliff slopes have more shrubby vegetation with abundant sweet smelling Senna (Coronilla valentine), the ‘cucumber plant’ (Sanguisorba minor) and the foetid Rue (Ruta angustifolia). The Astragalus tragacantha ssp. Vincentinus is notable also for the prickly hedgehog plants of the gorse-like Stauracanthus genistoides are common on the north-facing slopes subject to fierce sea winds, while the Hottentot Fig (Carpobrotus edulis) and Southern Bird’s –foot trefoil (Lotus creticus) are found on the cliff tops. Inland groupings include a Juniper (Juniperus) – Kermes Oak (Quercus coccifera) on the iron rich soils where they are also associated with French Lavender (Lavandula stoechas) and Thrift (Armeria pungens).
